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Officially, men in Saudi Arabia aren’t allowed to wear their hair long or to display jewelry-such vanities are usually deemed to violate an Islamic instruction that the sexes must not be too similar in appearance.

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The air conditioner of his dusty Honda battled the heat, prayer beads dangled from the rearview mirror, and the smell of the cigarette he’d just smoked wafted toward me as he stopped to show me a barbershop that his friends frequent.

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Yasser, a 26-year-old artist, was taking me on an impromptu tour of his hometown of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, on a sweltering September afternoon.

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